Suzuki and Kidstuff Tubing Installation
for Xylophones and Metallophones
By: Margaret Swain - 12/12/2024
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Unlike many other brands and models of Orff instruments, older Suzuki and Kidstuff xylophones and metallophones are designed for single-strand tubing installation.
Problems can occur if tubing such as Suzuki T-2 or Sonor ALS1 tubing is installed as double-strand. Each original Suzuki nail has a bulge at the top of the rubber sleeve. The player's side nails are shorter and go through the bar holes. The bulge on player's side nails is designed to sit inside the bar hole. The opposite side nails are taller and go between adjacent bars. The bulge on the opposite side nails is designed to sit above the top surface of the bars, to help them stay in place while the instrument is played. Double-strand tubing can push the bars up against the bulge in the opposite side nails, thus diminishing their resonance. This set of instructions pertains to older (pre-2021) Suzuki and Kidstuff xylophones and metallophones. See photo below. For information on Suzuki nails for these older models please click here.  Here are the tools and supplies you will need, shown left to right:
A nail set
Long nose or needle-nose pliers
Furniture nails
Tiny wire nails (either gauge 19 or 18 with a length of either 1/2" or 5/8")
A small ball peen hammer
A hose vacuum (not shown) Suzuki tubing part T-2 is long enough to repair any size of Suzuki xylophone or metallophone. For the smaller instruments, simply cut off the extra. Alternatively you can measure the total length you need for repairing several instruments and buy Sonor ALS1 tubing by the yard. Both are appropriate. 1. Begin by removing the old tubing, including any tubing shreds that are left in the holes at either end of the instrument, where the tubing was originally attached. Use pliers (long-nose or needle-nose) and a vacuum to pull out the bits. Do not try to remove the original staples that were holding the old tubing in place. Just remove the majority of the old tubing bits. Vacuum the rails and inside the resonator box.
2. Examine the particle board rails of the resonator box. If they are in reasonably good condition (not cracked or with large chunks missing), you can proceed. If you do see significant cracking or other damage to the resonator box, fix that first before installing the new tubing.
3. Replace any missing nails with appropriate Suzuki parts, and align all the nails with pliers so they are pointing straight up to the ceiling. Don't leave them leaning to the side, or front, or back. Do NOT replace any Suzuki nails unnecessarily as every time you remove one, bits of particle board are likely to pull out, thus widening the hole and making it harder to install a new one. A set of instructions for replacing Suzuki nails is planned for January 2025. Retain any Suzuki nails that are still usable.
4. Here are 2 photos to show what the finished tubing installation will look like. They show the low end and then the high end of a Suzuki soprano xylophone.
  Select the wire nails (either 19 gauge x 1/2 inch OR 18 gauge x 5/8th inch long) that you will be using to secure the tubing at the low end player’s side of the resonator box.
5. Puncture the T-2 or ALS1 tubing with a tiny wire nail about 1/2 inch from the end of the tubing. Insert the tubing end into the hole you've just cleaned. The smallest wire nails can often be used without drilling a pilot hole, but if you have concerns about cracking the resonator box, drill an even tinier hole to receive the nail. A #58 or 1/32 inch drill bit will create an appropriate pilot hole. Use a nail set to access the head of the nail. While the pointed end sits on the nail head, strike the larger end of the nail set with a small hammer. Be sure to position the wire nail, so that its head will not come in contact with the bottom of the Low C bar.    6. Meander the tubing from the low end to the high end on the player's side. At the high end of the player’s side install another wire nail to hold the tubing. Use the nail set again and be sure to position the nail head so it will not come in contact with the bottom of the High A bar. Rather than cutting the tubing, run it over to the other side and snake the tubing back to the low end.    7. Please note that you must go straight from the high A to the high G nail if you want the tubing to head inside the resonator box for the final attachment at the Low C end.
8. Use a furniture nail to secure the tubing at the low end opposite the player. Furniture nails are like thumb tacks, only much stronger and with a longer shaft. Turn the resonator box on its side, with the end plate/handle hanging over the edge of the work bench. Puncture the tubing, then use long nose pliers to hold the furniture nail while installing it. A small ball pein hammer (4-6 oz.) works well for this task. If the clearance is not adequate to use the hammer in the usual way, you can use the flattened side of such a hammer to pound in the furniture nail. Just BE SURE the top plate or handle piece of wood is hanging over the edge of your work bench, so the place where you are hammering is fully supported from underneath. Otherwise hammering will be ineffective. Hold the shaft of the furniture nail with long nose pliers to keep it upright while you strike the head with a hammer.   © 2024
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Margaret Swain
I enjoy working to connect teachers to quality books and instruments for music and dance education. I hope you find my blog useful and interesting.
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